‘Bourgeois’ style is the designer obsession du jour in Paris, referenced this week by Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent and Olivier Rousteing at Balmain. But on Friday evening, Celine’s Hedi Slimane reminded us that it was he who ushered in this style era (in his second Celine collection a year ago) in which the epitome of elegance is to dress like the chicest maman in St Germain. That is why there have been so many pussy bow blouses and tea dresses gracing the rails of Zara lately.
The look is evidently the gift which keeps on giving, as Slimane’s woman returned from her brief sojourn to St Tropez (last season’s collection alluded to Cote d’Azur chic) and was once again in Paris, this time with boho rive gauche2020欧洲杯体育足彩外围app spring in her step. Although this collection was not just about women, but a unisex offering with almost as many male models as female ones, all of them dressed in silk ruffled blouses. Some of the most desirable pieces were showcased by the boys, including a navy duffle coat with gold frogging.
2020欧洲杯体育足彩外围appWatching a Celine show, as a millenial, is like seeing a line-up of all the pieces you’d dream of finding in a vintage store or which usually live in grainy photos. For anyone who lived through the Sixties and Seventies, memories will undoubtedly be evoked. Slimane refuses to give comments on his collections, but the dedication of this one ‘à ma mère’ suggested the same power of personal nostalgia; born in 1968, he grew up in Paris with his Tunisian father and Italian mother.
The truth is that no thrift store trawl could wield finds quite as precious as these. Gypset tiered dresses were shot with Lurex, sumptuous velvet blazers and cropped jackets were sharp and sleek and there were lush, twinkling hand embroidered offerings ranged from mini dresses to maxi skirts and an incredible co-ord suit which is surely destined for the red carpet. And how about a stroll through the Bois de Boulogne in flat suede over-the-knee boots and a tweed cape, or wafting to cocktails at Cafe de Flore in a leopard kaftan?
2020欧洲杯体育足彩外围appThe show also saw the debut of a new jewellery range, Les Cristaux - tapping into the modern obsession with crystals, their significance and powers - and the introduction of accessories bearing the original ‘Sulky’ Celine logo, first created in 1966.
Criticism has been levelled at Slimane in the past for his obsession with ultra-thin models and Friday evening’s show was no different. Although Celine owner LVMH introduced a model charter in 2017 which asked that all models present a medical certificate attesting to their good health, many of the men and women looked gaunt. Plus ça change, but it does become a distraction from the exceptional clothes.
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